The 2007 vintage is looking good to good plus, closer in style to 2005, perhaps a shade less concentrated, but with far less botrytis than 2006. A famous trio, however. Helmut Dönnhoff, who gives no appearance of an inclination to overstatement, lists the five best vintages of the last 20 years as 2007, 2006, 2005, 2001, 1998 and 1990.

The vintage was marked, in contrast to 2006, by a very dry and mild Spring. The early flowering and ensuing summer, cool and uninspiring (as elsewhere) led to one of the longest maturation periods on record, finished, with the exception of the Eiswein, by the end of the second week in November. There was less Autumnal rain than 2006, therefore less rot, of both noble and ignoble complexion.

If 2006 was a Spatlese/ Auslese vintage, then 2007 marks a welcome return  to the Kabinett style (scarce in both 2005 and 2006) , exemplified by a delightful Ürziger Würzgarten from the Merkelbach brothers and really outstanding examples from Zeltinger and Wehlener Sonnenuhr and Zeltinger Schlossberg from Johannes Selbach.

Very little above Auslese in the Mosel, but the fist Eiswein for three years, picked on 21 December. Elsewhere a typically impressive portfolio from Leitz and Donnhoff. My favourite wines seem to be those where the quality increases with the number of syllables in the name; the Donnhoff Niederhäser Hermannshöhle RA , for example, truly outstanding this year.

Over in the Saar, Roman Niewodniczanski continues in his efforts to resurrect the Grand Cru/Grosser Lagen ( in preference to the Pradikat) designation. To this end he has acquired a promising new vineyard, Goldberg, located impressively close to Scharzhofberg itself. The wines, as those of Lowenstein, are still fermenting, or at least have only just finished fermenting. Even through the veil of cloudy youth, they are already showing raw promise and a sense of place. Roman, very enthusiastic in most matters, ranks 2007 as the best vintage in the Saar since 1971.

Simon Field MW, BBR Buyer