Alsace is a unique wine region for many reasons but perhaps most significantly in its labelling laws that stipulate that producers must stipulate the grape variety used on the label.

Of the nine permitted grape varieties, four are regarded as the best: the pure minerally Riesling, the aromatic Gewürztraminer, the dry grapey Muscat, and the spicy rich Pinot Gris. Only these `noble' varieties can be used to make grand cru and late-harvest wines. Pinot Blanc is also widely grown and produces attractive, creamy wines. These dry, food-friendly wines are mostly fermented at cool temperatures and are usually unoaked in order that they may retain their aromatic richness and their pure fruit character.

As you would expect, different producers have different styles: Trimbach's wines are elegant, bone dry and made to age, Hugel's are opulent with wonderful balance, and Mittnacht's tend to be almost off-dry, but with a remarkable concentration of fruit.

Most Alsace wine is consumed by the French themselves but like Germany, Alsace struggles to convince the export market about the merit and adaptability of its wines. Perhaps the current food fashion for fusion and oriental cuisine will help their cause.