It is one of life`s injustices that this beautiful wine region is forever associated in most people's minds with Beaujolais Nouveau, a thin and dilute wine that has more to do with marketing than actual substance. However there is an Aladdin's horde of gloriously satisfying wines to be found amongst the 10 named village Crus. They are situated along the 15 mile strip of granite hills to the north of the region, and they are the spiritual home of the fresh, fruity Gamay grape.

Stylistically Moulin-à-Vent has the most breadth and substance, and is capable of ageing for up to 10 years - Jacky Janodet is one of the best growers in the village. It is closely followed by the tiny Chénas, and the only marginally less powerful Morgon, where François Calot and Maurice Gaget produce impeccably crafted wines. Fleurie epitomises all that is good about the region with its perfumed, silky, moreish style, while the steep northern slopes of Juliénas yield impressive fleshy, spicy wines with surprising backbone.